Electric Bicycle Conversion Kits by eZee
The eZee electric bicycle conversion kit is in a class of its own. It has been the retrofit kit of choice for discerning users for over a decade. The kit is comprised of the same robust and efficient motor, controllor and battery that powers thousands of happy eZeebike riders every day, including many cross-continental e-bike treks. (click here to go straight to online store conversion kit listings)
It is the recommended conversion kit by internationally renowned e-bike experts Grintech in Canada (aka ebikes.ca), has been used with great success by German eZee distributor Radkutsche for their electric cargo and delivery trikes. This year an eZee conversion kit on a recumbent bicycle won the Suntrip - a 7000km solar e-bike race from France - Turkey and return!
Locally, the eZee Conversion Kit is Gazelle Bicycles Australia's recommended option to electrify the Gazelle Cabby. We have also used it on many challenging cargo applications including the electric rickshaw fleet operated by Sydney Eco-Cabs, many conversions of electric bakfiets (Dutch cargo bikes with the wooden box in front), conversion of a Workcycles Fr8, a Danish Nihola cargo bike electric conversion and more.
In August of this year, it was used on the winning bicycle of the Hunter Valley Electrical Vehicle Festival "EV Prize", a competition based purely on efficient design of an electric bicycle (no pedal power allowed!) by local entrants from Newtown High School of the Performing Arts. The winning bike was designed and installed by Broughton (budding new Glow Worm) in our workshop.
What you get in the eZee electric conversion kit
- eZee hub motor (front or rear), built into a double-wall rim (20", 24", 26", 28" or custom) using 13g stainless steel spokes, including torque arm.
- eZee Controllor and eZee LED battery gauge
- eZee Battery and mounting hardware, available with the battery-specific rear rack or fitted to the bike's downtube (drink bottle area). Sizes between 11Ah and 15Ah.
- Battery charger to suit the battery chosen
- Left Hand half-grip throttle with matching grips
- Left & Right hand e-brake levers, compatible with all mechanical brakes. Not compatible with drop bars (road handlebars) or any type of hydraulic brake (use of e-brakes is optional in the kit)
- pedal sensor and magnet disc (use of these is optional in the kit)
Not included, but compatible with the conversion kit:
* e-bike lighting, front and rear, USB or 12V charge output for your phone, iPad, GPS, bicycle lights etc, VeloAmp electric bicycle sound system
How to Order
We're not into the hard and fast sell at Glow Worm Bicycles. Please do not hesitate to visit or email us to tell us about your specific needs and desires and we will do our best to give you the best advice for your bike. For most everyday riders, the best solution is not a conversion kit but a purpose built electric bicycle. Here are some articles worth reading before ordering:
- Pros and Cons of converting your bicycle to electric (vs a purpose built e-bike)
Ready to order? Great! You can go straight to this page for our most popular conversion kit configurations, but it's helpful to go through the rest of this article below.
These are the options we need to know to supply you a kit:
|Motor||Front or Rear|
|Wheel Size||Bare Hub, 20", 24", 26" or 28"|
|Battery||Flat Pack (FP) or Downtube (DT) battery|
|Battery Mounting (FP only)||Rear Carrier, Canvas Bag or Grintech battery anchor|
|Battery Size||11Ah (FP + DT), 14.5Ah (DT) or 15Ah (FP)|
|Extras||Lights, Torque Arm, Brake Parts, Freewheels, Tyre?|
1 - Front or Rear motor and in which size wheel? Front motor is generally more hassle-free during installation and maintaining your bike later. Will the standard torque arm work with your bike? If not, you may need to purchase a specialty torque arm. Generally speaking the standard one fits most front forks. Suspension front forks without eyelets for mudguards usually need the Rev3 Torque Arm. Rear motors usually need the Rev4 torque arm, but can sometimes use the standard or the Rev3. More details here.
2 - Where will the battery go? We need to know which battery (flat pack battery or downtube battery) and which mounting system. The downtube battery pack only has one mounting option but if you choose the flat pack battery, there are three options. The flat pack battery's default option is the 'double decker rear rack' which is mounted to the rear of the bicycle, allows use of panniers and the battery will be removable with your key. The flat pack battery can also be supplied with just a canvas bag to protect it and you can put it wherever you like (under the bench seat of a cargo bike, in your pannier bag etc). Another option is the Grintech Battery Anchor, which allows your flat pack battery to be locked to a variety of places on a bicycle. There's a $20 extra charge if you choose this option.
3 - Do you want or need any extra stuff?
Your bicycle wasn't designed with electrification in mind. More often than not, it means something won't quite fit or that your bike could simply benefit with some changes due to the fact you're about to ride it a lot more, a bit faster and in different conditions. Here's the most common stuff purchased when doing an electric bicycle conversion:
* E-bike lighting. It's great to have lights that you don't have to charge or take on and off your bike!
* Brake parts. When using disc brakes with the eZee Motor, you need to use a minimum 180mm diameter disc rotor so that the caliper can clear the hub. Maybe you need to order a disc rotor or a disc brake adaptor? Perhaps your brakes just need some new pads, fresh cables or an upgrade to hydraulic now that you're going to ride it as an electric bike?
* Puncture Resistant Tyres. Flats suck for anybody on any bike. But when you're riding more often, you get more flats. And if you're riding electric, there's a greater chance you're on your way to somewhere time critical. Your previous bail-out options like a taxi or waiting a few days to get around to fixing it, won't be as appealing anymore! Our kit comes with a Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre on the motor wheel. We recommend a matching one for the other wheel
* A better lock. Your bike is now worth more and will probably leave the house more so it's appropriate to consider a better a lock. A good lock isn't just about being difficult to break, it should also be easier to use. Check out our range of locks and explore whether you can fit a wheel lock to your bike.
* E-bike hardware. The wheel you're about to put in is probably different in some way to the one you took out. This is especially true when doing a rear motor conversion. It's not unusual to need spacer washers for your motor axle. These washers for one side of the motor, and these C-washers for the side where the motor cable comes out. You may also need to space your disc rotor for the alignment to work. For a rear motor you will probably need a freewheel and it won't necessarily work with the exact same number of gears or the exact same gear ratios as your old one!